Two crimps

Two crimps seems to be the standard. 

You might look for something like this: http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=49432-281-2078300

It seems like it might give you more leverage than your standard tool, which was this:

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=34132-12704-45-778&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=1083479&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

I had to crimp some of those connectors the other day... I'm pretty sure I used standard needle-nosed pliers. But yeah, it's a bit rough on the hands. 

I've always been a two crimp man

2 crimps

but only one connects the wire to the contact, the 2nd crimp closes the insulation of the contact over the wire insulation.

I got a flat 'multi-tool' that has 2 size options for the contacts and a space for closing the insulation.

Besides that I have a professional crimper with sets of dies that crimp the contact in 1 go, also crimping both the contact proper and the insulation.

Over here these contacts used to be made by AMP, now it's mostly Faston. It pays off in the long run to match the contact size with the correct wire gauge and v.v., especially when the current gets higher. A faulty connection can (and will) cause the most exotic failures ...

http://www.adereindhuls.nl/kabelschoen-schuifconnector-geheel-geisoleerd.htm  has an AWG table.

cheers, Leo

Crimpers

Since there won't be any or no vibration that would cause a connection failure I'd say one crimp is fine.

To make crimping easier I'd use a ratcheting type tool such as the one in this link. Price isn't bad. Plus you'll never know when you'll need to crimp something other than a wire on your layout. Might as well get a better tool than several cheaper tools of a period of time.

http://www.toolking.com/titan-11477-ratcheting-wire-terminal-crimper?CAWELAID=976678643&catargetid=1436452153&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CNSljN6azLQCFYKK4AodzygAiQ

Bernd

One plus solder

I don't think it's overkill.  I use one crimp, put a drop of liquid flux at the end and flow some solder in.  The soldering just takes a second and gives some insurance against the mechanical connection coming loose.

Lance

I do as Lance suggests: one

There was a bit of discussion on this after my column a year ago about Layout wiring. http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/magazine/mrh-2011-12-dec/dcc_impulses

OK, I'm Convinced

No point in throwing caution to the wind.  I'll continue with double crimps (or perhaps the crimp and solder).  The two tools referred to both look like an improvement over the cheaper tool I've used in the past.  I especially like the looks of the one Bernd linked to, with it's nice wide handles and the ratcheting action.  For the price, it's a no-brainer vs. buying several of the cheaper tools.

Thanks for the opinions, guys.

-Jack

The Bruce and Lance Club...

I am with Lance and Bruce on this one.  I also like to crimp and solder.

I use this tool for all my crimps.  It's made by Klein and is of excellent quality.

I probably qualify as a pro.

I have worked on communications equipment in State Police cars and other agencies for 19 years, I have some input on this topic.

I use a pair of the Kleins like pictured above. They will make a much better crimp than the other version pictured at the beginning.

THEN as a rule, I solder the connections, ALWAYS. These connections once soldered are reliable and will survive vibration or abuse. While our layouts may not shake like a police car, youll do the connection once and no worries later.

Connector failures are often from a bad crimp. Large current connections will build up heat, causing the metal in the terminal to stress and then fail. By soldering them, even with a poor crimp they will be much more reliable.

For no longer than it takes to solder its well worth the effort in the long run.

Electronics guy to pay for my trains....

All of the above

All of the tools and processes described in the previous comments have been successfully used in the manufacture of military or commercial products--I've built products with some of them and have seen them in a lot of other products.

I personally prefer not to use crimp terminals, but to solder as many connections as I can as the terminal adds another point of possible failure.  If I have to use a screw terminal I will tin stranded wire and wrap it clockwise around the screw so that tightening the screw will pull the wire further under the screw.

Terry

1+solder

I too crimp then solder.  The crimp makes an OK mechanical connection, enough to hold the wire.  Then the solder makes it bullet-proof.    I have noticed that my grip is not what it was in years past.

The time it takes to do all of your soldered connections is probably going to be less than the time it takes trouble-shooting and finding the one failed mechanical-only connection that creeps in at the most in-opportune moment.

And Klein tools are simply the best.

One Crimp - No Solder

Slightly different take on the discussion. I recommend buying a nice pair of ratcheting wire terminal crimpers. Something like the Titan 11477 mentioned by Bernd earlier in the post. I have come to appreciate the statement; "The pain felt paying the cost of a good tool is quickly forgotten. The joy of saving money buying a cheep tool is never remembered".

I have used the cheap wire stripper/crimpers in your photo (still have it in my tool box) and I can understand why everyone is saying to double crimp. Been there myself.  With a ratcheting crimper there will not be the need for multiple crimping or soldering and it can be easier on the hands.

Comment on soldering. Soldering is not a good idea when using wire terminals. (This excludes a few terminals that are designed to be soldered.) In fact it defeats the purpose as a wire terminal was designed to provide a low stress removable connection. When you solder the wire it creates a stress point. Fatigue will set in and the wire will break at the connection. As pointed out in the posts, our layouts are subjected to very little vibration; however if you find your self in a position where you are continually removing terminals (trouble shooting) one may break off. It has happened to me.

I recommend you get a nice pair of crimps and make one crimp and go.     

The point of the second

Reliable Crimps

Jack,

A number of years ago, I worked quality control in a small oil field control shop. We use controls that used hundreds of crimp terminals. on final inspection we were experiencing about a 10 percent failure rate with the terminals. the first solution reduced the failure rate to about 2 percent. That solution was to use non-insulated spades with a Klein crimp tool that was mentioned before in this post.

These are easier to place and crimp correctly. They are also easier to inspect for proper fit. If a solder application is desired, this type of terminal is ideal. I prefer the flat spade end to a bent up end because it is easier to stack multiple spades on on the same screw. In the industry it is commonly agreed that a proper crimp is better both mechanically and electrically than a solder connection.

The second step reduced the failure rate to almost nothing. that was to use a ratcheting tool as described earlier in this post. The Klein if used properly can provide as good of crimp as a ratchet tool.

Personally I use a Klein and the non-insulated terminals for my railroad and for service work on control panels. I detest the universal wire tools. They are good for striping wire and cutting screws and wire. They are poor crimping tools, and inferior to a good set of wire strippers and cutters.

Regards,

John

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"The Piper Cub is the safest airplane in the world...It can just barely kill you." - Attributed to Max Stanley (Northrop test pilot)

Why not these?

And the Winner Is...

Folks,

Thanks for all the comments on this topic.  In the end I decided to continue using the standard barrier type terminal strips as they worked so well on previous layouts.  And surprisingly, after doing a lot of checking with the various electrical and electronics suppliers, I was able to get better pricing (in bulk) on those compared to the newer style modular "barrel" type strips that seem to be in vogue these days.

I also looked at about all the crimpers suggested here (plus others), and finally settled on the one Bernd and one or two others recommended, the Titan 11477.  It is imported, which gave me a cause for concern, but at the price (and my budget), I figured I'd give it a shot.

I was pleasantly surprised when it arrived.  It is very heavy and solid feeling.  It is setup for 3 different sizes of lugs which take me through all of my needs.  I've crimped all three sizes, the red and blue in some serious numbers now, and every crimp has come out perfectly.  I give healthy tugs to each wire I crimp and they're crimped solidly.  The crimps are broad, and crimp the entire width of the metal barrel in one motion.  The crimper is a ratcheting style, and requires significantly less pressure than my old crimpers ever did.  In short, I'm extremely pleased at this point and would recommend this tool.

-Jack