A couple modifications

First of all, I would strongly suggest building the towers as described, then adding L-girder benchwork on top of or between the towers.  Depending on the span of the towers, you could use simple vertical 1x4s to support the benchwork by screwing them to the double horizontal arms on the towers.  Whatever design you go with, tying the benchwork into the towers would eliminate the need for separate braces, and possibly for screwing anything to the floor.

The second modification to your concept is a little more drastic, but in my opinion more important.  Abandon the idea of taking your layout with you when you move.  Unless you happen to find another identical space in which to put it, it will require modifications to fit the new space anyway.  I have never had good results trying to re-use parts of layouts, and my current layout is a testament to the problems it can cause.  It forced my design to be far from ideal for the space, and if I were starting over, I would do things MUCH differently.  Aside from that, though, your skills, budget, and possibly tastes will almost certainly change in 10 years time.  By scrapping your layout when you move, you allow yourself the freedom to build a new and better layout in your new home.  You can always keep significant scenes or structures, but I'd be willing to bet you really won't want to keep the whole thing as-is anyway.

Hmmm...

Ken, If I was to abandon the idea of movability I would probably just build a more traditional open-grid style benchwork with some kind of vertical support running along the backside to support the backdrop and valance, perhaps something like this, but without the second level shelf.

You make some good points and I'm going to have to think that through some more.  My hope was not to have an identical space, but to instead have 5 or 6 sections which I could re-use maybe 3 or 4 of instead of having to trash everything.

Very likely.  I can already see that all 3 of these have changed over the last 5 years so I'd expect it would continue to do so over an even longer time.

On reusing layouts

Believe me, I understand the desire not to "waste" your current modeling time and budget.  Over time, though, I've come to the conclusion that it's the building that I enjoy, not the having.  Since I enjoyed building the layout, it could not possibly be a waste even if I have to chuck it all and start over.  And, as I said earlier (as as Joe commented in his famous "Chainsaw layout" Reverse Running column, you will probably have a better layout the next time around if you learn all you can on this one and then start from scratch.

With that said, here's a suggestion.  If you model a specific prototype, and if you have the space to devote to it, make a few select scenes removable.  Build them on the workbench and transplant them into the layout if you like.  I'm thinking of any towns or locations which really identify your prototype, and which you've devoted the time and space to modeling accurately.  If you keep the same prototype for the next go around, you're likely to want those same scenes, and since they're based on a prototype location you're pretty likely to want them in the same shape they are now.  Of course, if your skills or tastes change enough, you'll still be better off rebuilding, but at least you'll have the option.

The reason I specified prototype as one of the qualifiers is that a freelance layout will not (probably) have any strongly identifiable locations, and even if it did the geometry would probably be a lot more flexible if you rebuilt.  The Keddie wye or Horseshoe curve have to look a certain way to be right, but a bridge over the Grand Canyon could be straight, or curved, or even tunnel through one side or the other.

The only other way I would generally recommend making part of a layout reusable would be if you chose to incorporate one or more modules, and even that has some issues.  The shape of a module is generally different from the shape of a home layout, because the two do very different jobs and use space differently.  I have a Free-Mo module in my layout now, and I regret it.

I have been looking at how

I have been looking at how the Australians do it, check out Keiran Ryan Models under Modules:

http://www.krmodels.com.au/

This is an interesting concept and with slight modification would be great for show modules.

Run a couple of strings of LED rope under the upper valance and away you go. 

--

Will Annand

Modular/Moveable Layout

Titus,

i faced a similar issue on the layout i started while serving in the Army (decades ago!).  I knew I would be moving, yet I wanted my own layout that could move with me.  The key is keeping the layout chunks manageable.  For me, that worked out as layout sections 2x4 feet in size--my "domino."  I built open-grid frames, mostly capped by plywood, though one corner "module" (not a "standard" 2x4) had significant terrain variation with a trestle crossing a steep creek, leading into a tunnel.  

I successfully had all of it moved cross-country.  The flat plywood sections had some track and roadbed saved.  Other flat sections had new homasote placed on top and totally new track arrangements developed.  it was a mix of some re-use and some "rebuilt."

As with you, my units were self-standing.  The backdrop supports (1x2) were tied to the rear legs (2x2) and a valence structure cantilevered over the top to hold both the valence and lighting.  I chose to support the front of the layout modules with front legs so I could fit shelves underneath the layout.  Yes, it was structural overkill, but it accomplished what I wanted in two apartments--separated by the continent.  

Ken Rickman has made good suggestions of Layout Design Elements as a basis for more permanent trackwork.  That would apply to my "modules" that survived the move and reuse in the new space.  I also mounted most of my structures on homasote bases that were only attached to the layout with a bit of scenery plaster.  Those popped right out when the time to move came, and were packed separately.  

My summary: go for it!  Build an underlying structure that can be adapted to new space.  Build the RR on top of that with an eye toward moving, but don't get too hung up on that.  Your interests and skills are likely to develop still further.  The key is to retain structural adaptability and an open mind.

Good Luck!

Bill Decker

(Finally, now, with a great home layout location!  http://espeecascades.blogspot.com/)

Layout dust

A good way to keep the dust down is to paint the ceiling joists and the floor. Any Lowes or H.D. floor paint will work for the floor, and renting a spray gun ( or buying a cheap one ) would make the joists easy to paint.....Mike

Tower Design

If you decide to proceed with the tower concept - certainly a valid approach - I suggest that you can omit the double 2x4s and 1x4s at the base and shelf locations:  one member only at each location is sufficient if the towers are horizontally connected and spaced 16"-24" apart.  On the other hand, I would double the 1x2 outriggers for the valance, one on each side of the post and braces to facilitate better connections for the "hanging" function (or use a single 1x3 outrigger with double 1x2 braces, one on each side of the outrigger). 

Dante

Dust Control

If as you say the dust is coming through the floor boards, then having a valance over the layout isn't going to solve the problem. Dust will still be accumulating on the floor and will get blown around every time someone moves through the room.

I  would suggest that ideally you need to put a proper plaster board ceiling in with all joints sealed.  However, if cost is an issue then there are  a range of options from 3mm MDF, Coreflute sheets or even plastic.  The cheaper you go the less eye pleasing it will be.  Choice is up to you but make sure all the joints are sealed.

Peter

KRmodels modules, ready for showing...

Dear Will,

I can confirm that the Keiran Ryan-style modules can work exactly-as-is for exhibition and "show" layouts. That said, 9mm CD plywood and 30-kilos/6' module was a bit overkill IMHO. Replacing the plywood with Foamcore, and adding a stiff Qubelok aluminium ladder frame works great, and drops the tare weight to under 5-kilos per module...
(a raw foamcore version of Keiran's modules weighs in at under 3 kilos, INC lights, ready for track!)

http://www.carendt.com/scrapbook/page87/index.html

http://www.carendt.com/scrapbook/page97a/index.html#chicago

http://www.carendt.com/scrapbook/page103a/index.html#chicago-fork

http://www.carendt.com/scrapbook/page95a/index.html#klyzlr

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Moveable Not Portable

I am just about ready to get started on my benchwork. I wanted something that could be moved as we are only going to be in our present home about two years. I have been reading various threads about lighting and how placing it at an angle seems to be better so I have tried to incorporate that into my design and this is what I have come up with.

The main framework is all made from 3/4" plywood, except for the wide panels on the front and underside of the top which is cut from 1/4" plywood. I am going to build each module into 3ft sections which can be bolted together.

Building it this way means I will not have to deal with repairing walls of any damage when we do move and I can relocate it fairly easy and if as others have said I may wish to have a new design the benchwork will still be useable.

Paul

A wild idea

Here's a goofy idea for you..

You could use a single sheet of something like Masonite as legs, backdrop, and valence support.  Make each piece have some sort of curve in it, and build the benchwork directly off of that.  The curve will make the structure remarkably rigid, and if all the pieces are tied together the structure would be self-supporting without any feet.  If each "module" had at least some degree of curvature, then thy could be disassembled and moved since each one would be rigid.  Depending on benchwork depth, you might need some feet at the front, but I would think that 12" or so could easily be supported directly off the Masonite.  A final advantage would be a much more organic form which would probably look really good.

Dear Paul, The rendering

Dear Paul,

The rendering looks good. Some questions if I may.

1 - Are you intending to gussett the rear "flat panel" legs

2 - Are you intending to hyper-lighen the roof/lighting pelmet to avoid overweight and leverage effects?

3 - Are you intending to gussett the backdrop section?
(using profile boards or similar?)

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Moveable Not Portable Plan B

Hi Prof,

1. I have been tinkering around with my drawing and have since added some lateral support to the bottom of the legs and also added a shelf which should not only be useful for storage but also keep the entire frame much more rigid and perfectly square.

2. The roof/lighting pelmet is mostly 1/4" plywood with just the two ends and one center support made of 3/4" plywood which will be glued and screwed to the rear upright and was also thinking about adding a metal corner brace as well. It might be another option to replace the plywood with some of those plastic diffusers that they use in commercial ceiling light fixtures and have the lights installed above them, that may reduce the weight a little.

3. I think if the backdrop is glued to the rear supports it should stop and sideways motion, also as there is 3/4" behind the backdrop all power for the lighting can be hidden behind it.

Here is the updated drawing.

Thanks Paul

How are you planning to

How are you planning to attach the track?  Will there be a shelf piece that you build which sits on top of that, or are you going to build risers on it as if it were open grid benchwork?

Attaching Track

Hi Titus

I was thinking about putting 2" foam on top of the frame work and then maybe using Woodland Scenics risers to get the elevation I need.

You could use wooden risers if you wanted to but you would need to make sure the sub roadbed on top of them only stretched as far as the end of each module if you wanted to make it portable.

Paul

Some folks just staple thick

Some folks just staple thick plastic dropcloths to the floor joists.  Not pretty, but cheap, fast, and you can rip it down easily when it's time to move.

I'm facing a similar dilemma - I am about to expand my hollow core door shelf switcher to an around-the-walls in a dedicated trainroom in the basement, but it looks like there's a good chance we'll be moving in a year or so.

Good luck!

Goodwill sheets?

My first thought was to get some cheap flat bed sheets at Goodwill or similar (white or light blue even) and simply staple them to the ceiling. 

You could even dye them all light blue....