Nice list

It's a excellent idea to submit such list of the available cleaning cars and vaccum machines for models train.

https://www.lux-modellbau.de/

I just would give this link from a German company

For HO and N scale these are also excellent working machine

They are done in Germany, are Dcc ready and use Faulhaber motor for the motorized units.

They are extremly powerful like the vacuum car.

They are first rate quality build which explain the high price.

Track cleaning solvent warning

I noticed in the list of low dielectric constant track cleaners that you listed three petroleum fuels.  Aside from the obvious warning about volatility/flammability there is one other "hidden" problem with the fuels Kerosene, Gasoline, and Diesel.  All are complex mixtures of hydrocarbon distillates which contain trace amounts of high molecular weight mixed aromatic compounds, oils, and other waxy heavy organics and parafins.  

These compounds stay on the track, and while sealing it to prevent oxidation, also attract dust, dirt, and other undesirable materials.  They are insoluble in polar compounds, and thus can be difficult to remove over time.

I thought you might not know this bit of information.

Clay 

Comparison purposes only

Those are for comparison purposes only. For track cleaning, use mineral spirits, a contact cleaner, or a solvent specifically designated as a track cleaner.

For example, Goo Gone is listed as well -- but the stuff is horrible! It cleans well enough, but it's basically limonene, which ages to become essentially a thick sticky pitch. You DO NOT want to use Goo Gone on your track for that reason.

The bottom line on cleaning track is not just how well a solvent may clean the track at first, but how well the track will stay clean AFTER you use the solvent.

Track cleaning solvent warning

I was pretty sure that was what you were trying to say, but there are always tyros out there who take such lists as gospel.  As to Goo Gone, that was debated LONG ago on the old RMR forum, to the same conclusion.  Best wisdom back then was Wahl Clipper Oil, which is still what I  use.  It lasts a long time!

Clay

It's a warning well taken

I saw a fair amount of commentary on using kerosene (both from a "it's a low dielectric" and "Are you friggin' kidding? It's fuel!" points of view) on the internet after that first article came out. 

I bought & used Track Magic

Track Magic works great. I did a total cleaning of the layout to start from scratch and even cleaned the metal wheels of all rolling stock. Track Magic really did a great job cleaning up the wheels! I used a Q-tip for the wheels. Cleaned the rails with it and am very satisfied with how the locos & track are doing so far. I formally used alcohol and by now would have had that black, dried dust gunk on the track after running as much as we have done.

I may invest in a cleaning car.

CRC 2-26

i find it interesting that CRC 2-26 is in the poor area. Based on it being a solvent I guess that makes sense. But personally I don’t clean track with CRC 2-26, it is part of my process which has proven effective.

In my usage, I clean the track with alcohol, multiple swipes then dry with clean cloth, and then apply 2-26 to the rail. I let that dry fully. It creates a “sealed” barrier over the rails (for lack of a better term). This seems to prevent oxidation and “dirty track” issues. Once done I do not clean the track in any way. I can go over a year or more with no issues in electrical conductivity. I have a staging yard which has not been touched in 3 years, no issues (it does ge5 less through traffic than mainlines, so that may be a factor).

I did not come up with this, it is a common practice on many southern NJ operating layouts. 

I should also mention that I do the same to loco wheels, and cleaned all wheel sets initially (clean only, no CRC. 

Mike McNamara

Delran NJ

You also need to consider how it ages

No OX

What are your thoughts on No Ox? I see you have it with red numbers, like goo gone in the article. I remember reading on the internet (so it must be true, right?! lol) that if properly applied it reduced the need to clean tracks.  

See "No-OX Thread"

No-Ox

Wiping up!

Wouldn't it be safe to say. That anything you wipe on the rails should be wiped dry. Alcohol evaporates rapidly, and that's why it was a good use back in the "good old days". Cheap, readily available, etc. So, in todays world, we use Mineral Spirits/My Favorite, No-Ox, Wahl's clipper oil, etc. All seem to be acceptable - based upon most comments herein. But I would like to make my observation. As JoeF has stated, even Mineral Sprits can leave black gunk. So a wipe after is good. With my simple shelf layout, I have no need for any special cleaning cars. I wipe the rails with Mineral Spirits until they shine. And then simply dab the graphite here and there and let cars spread it. I haven't noticed any gunk. I do have some plastic wheels. And it's now 7 months and have seen no problems yet. Locos run just fine. And also FYI. I don't have any passenger cars with lights, nor any current draw other than sound steam locos. So, my point is simple. For a simple layout, just your finger and a cloth is all that is necessary. When you get a larger/longer layout, then the track cleaning cars become a useful addition. The main point I see from y'all is that our new insight on cleaning track has made a huge break through in model railroading. Thanks to JoeF and his research. He's doing what we'all should have been doing all these years. Test something and see what good results can be learned.