MRH

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Read this issue!

 

 

 

 

 

Please post any comments or questions you have here.

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Rick Sutton

OK I'll step up!

Here's a few of the projects that leaned heavily on Affinity Photo. Buildings designed, both structure and external siding etc., Signs, mechanical equipment, road marking decals, rolling stock and graffiti decals etc., etc. in addition to editing and enhancing all the photographs that I post.......wheh! That's a mouthful.

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Reply 0
joef

Have you done what they show, Rick?

Wow, that’s an impressive visual list of projects!

The video linked to in this article shows using the perspective tool to isolate a slanted building wall in the photo and Shazam! You can get either a totally flat view of the wall in a few seconds, or you can change the building's perspective on-the-fly.

The first option allows us modelers to take a good resolution Google photo and get a digital image in moments to use as a photo-lam structure wall.

The second option gives modelers trying to build a photo backdrop a lot of flexibility in using.ing with structures in their backdrop photos.

Have you done any of this, Rick?

Pretty amazing stuff ... and with software that’s just $25 right now. Simply astounding!

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

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Read my blog

Reply 0
Rick Sutton

Joe

Yup!  Pretty much step one when doing modeling based on images. Before I purchased Affinity I verified that it did perspective correction as that was critical.  My projects start with photographs I've taken at the railroad I model and squaring them up in AP.  

 I've been on Affinity for a long time and early on the lack of a comprehensive manual (now available) and very few relevant tutorials forced me to bumble around to figure it out. It's now fully documented and mature. In that long learning process I found ways to do things that are probably not the fastest/bestest/smartest methods. I referenced my university studies in architecture to construct methods that worked for me.  Affinity was not only very good early on but it has gotten better with the new releases and I've been able to upgrade over the years at no extra expense.....wow! A software company that actually rewards their customers with a solid program that keeps on giving!

Anyway, I'm a big fan....pretty obvious. 

Reply 0
Rick Sutton

Photo lamination models

When it comes to perspective correction the best results are with as straight a photo as you can get. Look close at these photos and you'll recognize the pieces used in the model photos above. I found out early on that photos taken at an extreme angle posed several problems. The perspective can be corrected but the compression front to back also has to be addressed.  

 In the photos below you can see that I took shots that are pretty square on often requiring walking the front of the building and grabbing multiple images to knit together. Even the best photos will need perspective correction. Look closely and you can see that the angle of the camera shows the need for both horizontal and vertical correction. As always, start with the highest resolution image you can get especially if you pull it from the internet........every change, new generation and re-rastering of the image will degrade the image a tiny amount and those tiny changes can add up to a pixelated, blurry mess if you are not careful. A complex image needs to be around a minimum of 1000 px wide to allow for the image to stay solid during the editing. The images below are from an old iPad camera at 1936 × 2592. My iPhone XS that I use now is 4032 × 3024 and produces phenomenal images for this kind of work.

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