The first image number 1 of

The first image number 1 of the first page of the article is not of a kato kit but the result of Type 1 build as described on page 7. Also on page 26 the heading says tools but this is actually a continuation of the parts list on page 25 and should be entitled Parts  continued.

On page 13 under Capacitors the word expolde is there at the end of second paragraph, it should be explode.

The author: Louis Angelucci

MRH: All fixed and uploaded.

@Lou.. thanks

comments

Thank you for your comment.

Yes they are simple because they have to be to fit within the N scale cars.  What is more important is the circuitry and ideas work.  I have competed several fleets of passenger cars now with these techniques and in particular Kato cars with the White LED reel spoken about as build 3.  There is nothing better than to see your passenger rolling stock go down the track with constant and uniform interior lighting.

One tip I have to offer

I mentioned in another thread... if using LED strings that don't stay straight, slide them into a clear plastic straw... it'll act as a diffuser.   Then attaching both ends to the ceiling holds the assembly in place.

I've built my own caboose truck pickups, added a cap, and used NCE light-it decoders to control the effects.  Another sweet application of the circuitry you outline... minor modification, but just as simple.

Electrical Pick Up

This is a very nice article and shows top notch methods for improving LED lighting in passenger cars.  I've used small wire wrapped around axles for electrical pick up when my HO 3 axle trucks which are all plastic or old metal(several brands).  This works fine for electrical; however, I'm sure it induces a good amount of friction which is not fine.  This article uses a very good manufacturer made truck for direct pickup.  For expense reasons (large number of heavyweights), I plan to stick to existing trucks.  I have reviewed articles that have used complex brass strip and taped holes in trucks.  Do MRH readers have any neat not too complex ideas for axle pick up that improve upon this friction problem?

@steve. your method should do well when

Stay Alive circuits

Could these circuits be used to keep locomotives running as well? I wonder if the rectifier would still be required if wired in line with the decoder input from the rails. 

Thanks for a great article!

@Neil, once the capacitor is reached, the circuit must be DC

... or made DC... The capacitor won't work on AC. The decoder is at least partially DC and it is critical where a keep alive is situated within the decoder. But don't rely on my knowledge. I've never built one, or poked at one to find a rectifier. But to run LEDs or pwm motor control, you'd need DC. The location of the rectifier may be different by brand, and assuming can make more smoke than light. Essentially, the resistor/ Zener/ capacitor are the essence of a keep-alive. The Zener protects the capacitor, the resistor pushes power into the capacitor (otherwise it would run around the cap), and obviously the capacitor stores what it can. Now you know enough to build a keep-alive of nearly any size... But if it's too big, it can fry itself and the decoder when things go wrong. Heck, you can even fry yourself! (Think: Taser).

[EDIT: added content]  The above assumes a polarized capacitor... but if employed in an AC circuit, such can be a part of a voltage regulator.  A polarized capacitor properly selected can cat Like a rectifier.  Some AC  night lights employ capacitors and resistors to drop voltage and drive a DC circuit for LEDs without major circuit components.... 120V to 3 or 6V! This stuff is beyond my skill set, but I recognize it as another application.     -PF

I have wired locomotives for

I have wired locomotives for lighting the front lamp and the rear lamps.  I have actually used bi-color LEDs red and white and use the rectifier to light the front white and the rear red when going forward and the front red and the rear white when going backwards.

I have considered this as another article for publication as well.  The draw is right from the locomotive pickups and will work with DC as well as DCC.  

thank you

Lou Angelucci

I have tried the wrapping as

I have tried the wrapping as you suggest but I don't like the flickering and the friction on the wheels.  The problem has always been picking up the juice from the wheels.  I went with the KATO trucks because they are available and will work with a little effort.  The problem with KATO is the expense and of course fit.  The other issue is limited runs that KATO has.  As long as they are making the cars they will provide the trucks as separate purchase.  

There is another work around that I also did but did not publish but it too also used the KATO trucks. Unless someone else knows of a commercial truck conductive pickup system other than those dame forks, the KATO trucks seem to be the best solution for me.

Thanks

Lou Angelucci

Phosphor Bronze coils on axles

@Lou,

One truck with 2 coils, One to each rail.  

Phosphor Bronze  .015 max diameter wire, about 5 inch wire length before winding the axle.    As you can see, they're Not tightly wound, but are still snug enough to contact on a tangent of the axle.  Visible here:  the right axle touches the rearmost part of the coil. 

In all cases, the soldered lead is nearest the insulated wheel, the free end can thus touch the inside of the wheel that conducts to the axle.  Note the bolster is drilled to anchor the other end so the coil won't drift across and cause a short.

Some flickering results, but while in steady motion, it's minimal.  With a capacitor, it's not to be noticed (unless you try to prove otherwise).  My application is with  NCE Light-It decoders and interior lights and markers (this is a caboose).

Looks good if it works for

Looks good if it works for you then stick with it

thank you

Lou Angelucci

Wire Wrap Feedback

Lou and Peter - Thanks for your feedback on my axle wire wrap friction concern.  Maybe Peter's use of Phosphor Bronze  .015 wire would make a difference in friction.  I have been using .020 brass wire which is probably a bit stiffer.  Each of my LED lighted heavyweights have a rectifier, capacitor, and resister circuit which I soldered up. While moving the flicker is minimal.  Peter, I like your idea of flipping the pickup wheel on the two axles of a truck -neat idea, I need to try that.

@Steve I bought both .010 and .015 PB wire

when I started this... both work well.   .020 is stiff enough to be less useful (harder to form and less "bouncy").  The 'bouncy' quality assures somewhat frequent contact, as well as a less-than-perfect loop around the axle -  I purposely pressed the coil into a near-oval shape.

These were shaped by hand... hold the wire across the axle and wrap it around 4 or 5 times... extra length (seen on the left axle) may touch the wheel interior with No detrimental effect - just make sure the wheel it touches has electrical continuity with the axle.  the straight leg extending to the bolster is nearest the Insulated wheel.

Note Both coils are Identically formed, straight leg at the left end when looking from the bolster... also, straight leg is nearest the roadbed at the axle, and Above the bolster at its anchoring point.  No glue needed, just a fine drill hole suitable to let the wire pass.

A J-shaped hook peeks through the bottom of the bolster - NOTE: use fine pliers to form the tight bends or risk poking wire into your fingers.  OUCH! 

Feeder wires are soldered nearest the bolster screw...  this car has feeders passing into the car at the 10 o'clock position relative to the bolster screw. 

Electrical performance is OK at worst and quite acceptable with capacitor to store a bit of energy.  I have only One truck per caboose to make electrical pickup!

Mechanically,  while the ones I've made do not roll as freely as my other trucks, they do run away on my 2% slopes. Thus, I find Lou's issue with friction is barely perceptible on these (I have an issue with that, too - but I don't allow it to be an obsession.)

I like the idea that you can get good results without a purchase... imagine 20 or 30 of those... that's a bit pricier than the $1 upgrade for each of these!   (it's actually less.)