Good stuff

Bruce,

I always take away something positive from your columns regardless of what the subject.  I do not have a garden layout nor plan to build one but I got some insight to building my island layout from your latest on wiring a garden layout.

Garden Railroad Wiring

Bruce,

I also have a garden railroad as my "second" layout.  At roughly 20' X 30', it is actually smaller and much simpler than my "primary" indoor S scale layout.  For wire splice connections I used the wire nuts that are filled with gel made for wet outdoor locations.  It don't remember exactly when I did the wiring, but they have been in use eight years or more without any noticeable problems.  Note that the instructions on these say they can only be installed once. I ran a PVC conduit around my mainline loop with the #12 AWG power feed wiring.  I installed a tee conduit box wherever I brought feeders out to track, which were also #12 AWG.  The feeders are not in conduit but are just buried.  The wire nut connections are within the conduit tees.  I can get to them, but haven't since they were installed.  Note that the conduit system does collect water.  I do have some feeders with a standard insulated crimp splice on them.  I haven't had any problems with them, but I only have a few years experience with them. 

I use brass Code 332 sectional track.  Initially, I soldered the #12 feeder wires to the side of the rail, which was not an easy soldering job.  I since have switched to using a wire lug under the one screw of the split-jaw rail joiners similar to what you are doing.  This has worked well for years and I highly recommend it.  I did not use the anti-oxidizing compound, but think that is a good idea.

In my case, I used #12 AWG wire with THWN rated insulation, which is suitable for use in wet locations.  If exposed to sunlight the outer nylon sheath does degrade and come off, which has happened to some of my feeders, but the main wire insulation is more than enough for our low voltage.  I do have a red and black color code.  

I have actually run trains in the rain.  The current draw does increase due to the leakage current, similar to what happens when ballast is still wet on an indoor layout.

Dave Heine

Easton, Pennsylvania

Good stuff, Dave!

Thanks for sharing.

DCC in the garden

My first thought is why would you "wire" an outdoor layout when battery power is so much more practical? No wires, no contact problems, no track to clean and the list goes on. My battery powered locomotives run for 4 hours on a full charge and that's plenty for our gang. 

Frank -

Apparently you missed part of my column, for I explain why at the bottom of page 2:

Wiring a garden RR

Bruce,

Good article! Much of what you outline here is applicable to indoor as well. Outdoor railroads present some additional challenges even in dry climates. You have some good suggestions for reducing the oxidation problems that challenge an outdoor RR. Perhaps insulating the connection point where the drop connects to the buss is not always necessary. (on my indoor RR I often let space and air gaps serve as the insulator. At some instances I place heat shrink tubing on these connections and at others use a product known as Liquid Tape.) Outdoors in many more moist climates there may be a potential for wet soil to cause problems. I think the Liquid Tape would solve the issue and it is not expensive.

Mark

Good points, Mark.

In a wetter climate, I'd look to liquid tape or silicone filled wire nuts or shrink tubing. But, I cannot recommend them, as I have no personal experience with them.

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the tips Bruce

I have recently started Garden Railroading. Currently I have a small layout, 94' mainline loop. I like to think of it as a 4x8 HO layout. It's my layout to experiment and learn with before going larger (building on acreage in a few years). Since this is a temporary layout I used the stock Aristocraft and USA Trains rail joiners. I did apply dielectic grease (from a local big box store) in each joiner. I have one feeder for the layout. The railroad has gone through one Minnesota winter, it held up just fine. Clean the top of the brass track every now and then with a fine drywall sanding block.

As for choosing DCC for my garden railroad versus battery. It's just a matter of preference. I've been using DCC in HO scale for close to 20 years and I'm comfortable with it. Didn't like the idea of installing batteries and having to charge them. With track power I can just turn the trains on and let them run all day with out having to recharge batteries. Plus I'm installing a Soundtraxx Sound Car in a boxcar, DCC track power makes it easier to sync this with the engine and I don't need another air card for controlling the Sound Car. Like I said, DCC track power is my preference. We all have our own ways of doing things in this hobby.

I do have some questions and wonder what tips fellow railroaders have. What works for you and why did you choose what you have.

- Switch control. Manual, DCC motor controlled, or pneumatic controlled.

- Signals. IR or track detection

- Type of track material brass, stainless steel, etc.

I'm leaning towards stainless steel for my new garden railroad. I've read that for outdoor DCC that it is the best. Thoughts?
 

Some comments, Eric

Thanks for the kind words. Your sharing of ideas is EXACTLY what I hoped to start.

Did you use any clamps (there are "over the clip" clamps)? Of course, a small loop isn't a big issue.

I used one feeder per section on my extensive layout for a couple of years while I worked on issues and just this spring got the "real" wiring done, which was why I wrote the article when I did. You may see some erratic operation with the single feed over time. I did.

My switches are manual control. It is a switching layout and part of that is throwing the darn thing! Very Big Grin.

I'm dark territory 1930s narrow gage, so no signals.

I'd use stainless if I were starting out from scratch now. I use brass because I have had it for years. Don't know if I could afford to replace it all now with stainless. Another grin.

No clamps, not yet at least

I have not installed any clamps, only using the Aristo and USA Trains rail joiners. I thought about installing Split Jaws but for now I do not want to spend the money (using funds instead for buying cars, engines, and QSI Titan decoders). For my future garden layout I will use clamps. 

I model modern era (although from time to time having steam and transition era stuff is fun), so I hope to be able to implement signals.

I have recently started using WiThrottle so having the layout map on the iPad for signal/switch control is possible. I go back and forth with manual or electric switches. I agree part of the fun of switching, is throwing the switch 

Outdoor O gauge

I also live in the South west and was looking into doing an outdoor O Gauge layout design. My concern has always been the wiring along with the DCC aspect of it. I have heard that you can place DCC in O scale engines. However, the wiring has been the big question mark for me. This is a big help as to wiring the layout.