Nice article, but ...

... the figure labeled [7], I believe, is the figure [8] as mentioned in the article; hence, there is no figure showing the clamps referenced in the paragraph below figure [7].

MODERATOR NOTE: Fixed.

I never had much luck

never had much luck with the vacuum base.

   I have the regular swivel base version and just set it on the workbench where ever I need it and it's heavy enough to hold even O scale cars without being bolted in place.  I have a bar clamp under the table just in case the vise needs to be secured to the workbench but I don't think I used it in years.  Apparently some vacuum base vices hold pretty well, I was testing one at Kmart many years ago and stuck it to the tile floor and it pulled up the 12 inch square tile when I tried to move it :> ) .....DaveB

Some other stuff

that comes in handy in building besides regular clamps, are small machinist square and pieces of steel stock of various sizes for helping to hold positions while laying out and cementing.  This photo illustrates how they worked for me to keep plumb and in position while "beams" are added to hold the trusses of this project together.

Bob Bochenek 

Coffman Clamps

Angle clamps, incl Coffman

I would say yes

Coffman clamps...

Bruce...

As much as I like Coffman clamps, I think that they are more than you need for garden railroad buildings. What you need is a way to hold the parts in alignment while adding glue and then letting them dry. Since G scale buildings are large, a jig to hold them needs to likewise be large. I'd suggest something simple like this:

Here is another view:

This could easily be fabricated with 3 pieces of S4S (all sides surfaced) 1x4 pine. It needs to be smaller than the smallest building you'll be building although you could easily make another one for larger buildings. Cut the bottom pieces with accurate 45 degree angles. The upright pieces need to have square cuts on them. If you don't have a power chop saw, a lumber yard will make the cuts for a nominal fee.

The vertical pieces need to be a right angles to the bottom piece and the outside surfaces of these pieces need to be flush with the bottom piece. I'd put a small bead of white glue on one of the vertical pieces and then just set it in place, making sure that it was lined up correctly and is at right angles to the bottom. After the glue sets, add the other vertical piece. When the glue is really dry, run a couple of screws through the bottom into the verticals to make sure that the joints hold. (You could just screw them in place and skip the glue but it can be difficult to hold things completely in alignment while screwing them together.)

Here is what the jig would look like with a couple of building sides in place: 

The jig rests on the workbench which ensures that the bottoms are all level and regular spring clamps (not shown) would hold the sides (yellow) to the clamp at the top. Once the sides are aligned and clamped, glue could be added to the building corner from the insides.

Jack Burgess

http://www.yosemitevalleyrr.com

Angle clamps...

Dave...

I just glanced at Cody's article and I think that his approach makes his project much more difficult than it needs to be. I'd cut the floor first from .040" styrene, being careful to lay it out at the angle desired. The floor needs to fit inside the walls (also of .040" styrene) so the size of the floor needs to be .040" narrower all of the way around. More important than the angle is that the width of the floor needs to be the same on both ends of the building.

Then cut the front walls a little long (you can sand the edges which will form the angled joint to get a nice tight joint rather than hide it like Cody apparently did) and then hold the pieces up against the floor to get the lengths exactly right.

Before gluing the walls in place (especially since there isn't interior detailing), add 2-3 triangle gussets to hold each wall at right angles to the floor like this (only one shown): 

Glue these gussets in place first flush with the edge of the floor and let them dry for a couple of minutes. Then set the wall section in place and hold in up tight to the gussets using a large angle plate like this:

You'll need to have some weights or something on top of the floor too in order to keep everything from sliding around which you push the angle plates up against the walls which are in turn pushing on the floor and gussets. When you are happy with the alignments and the joints are tight, add some glue to the joint between the wall and the floor. Also glue the walls to the gussets. Note: The glue will go completely through the floor joint and onto the workbench. I would glue these pieces together with the assembly sitting on a piece of plate glass. The styrene cement will seem like it is gluing the bottom of the floor to the glass but once the cement is dry, you can easily "break" the floor off of the plate glass.

Just how I would do it...

Jack Burgess

http://www.yosemitevalleyrr.com

Thanks, you have far more scratch building experience,

wouldn't need the extra thick foam to set the car end upon

 If the car has couplers they can just set on the bench top to hold the downward force when a car is clamped vertical. If it's a cardboard car be sure and clamp along the roof or floor edge to avoid distorting the car sides :> ) ..DaveB

Here is what the jig would look like

 That looks handy. It might be worth adding some triangle gussets to the bottom joints or maybe a top cross piece or metal 90 degree top tie bar to help it stay square over time.....DaveB 

Holding a car to be decaled...

ctmf74...

I don't actually "clamp" a car in the vise to apply decals to the ends...the jaws just keep the car from moving side to side. Also, I can't rest the car on the couplers (I wouldn't do that anyway) since the foam on the workbench raises the car high enough to reach the vise but also keeps the lower end of the car from sliding out.

Jack Burgess

Here is what the jig would look like...

ctmf74...

Good idea...I didn't build the jig but just drew it up to make it easier to visualize so I'm not sure if gussets might be needed or not. With many of the jigs I build, as soon as one is finished, I start thinking of improvements or better approaches. When I was thinking about this one, I envisioned being able to clamp each side to the jig with clamps at the top and bottom. But after I drew it up, I realized that the bottom portion of the jig would be in the way of clamping the bottoms of the sides. So, it might be okay the way it is or it might need to be modified to allow the bottom of each wall to be clamped.

Jack Burgess

I don't actually "clamp" a car in the vise to apply decals

  Hi Jack,  I don't clamp them very hard but when doing things like soldering cut levers or installing end grab irons I snug them up enough to not move around, I have a hard enough time soldering these tiny bit without the car moving. Couplers should be one of the strongest parts on a car if mounted correctly, I've found them quite capable of resisting the downward forces when a car is on the end, they take the column force allowing the clamping to be a bit less tight on the car sides than if it had to hold all the forces....DaveB

Thanks for the suggestion, Jack!

The drawings and step-by-step instructions should help lots of folks over the hurdle.

I have lots of the "one hand" clamps and four of these jigs will do the trick. These guys will hold the sides while the styrene cement dries. Since they even have room for the 1/4 round I mentioned in my prior post, they can hold the sides in place while the caulk holding the 1/4 round sets up, too!

Thanks.