I had no intention of trying to do a back drop on my industrial switching layout.  I'm not an artist and trying to paint a back drop would be worse than just leaving the pale blue wall (almost white) blank behind the layout.  Since I am modeling the Los Angeles Junction Railway, I may try to take some pictures to use as backdrop material and have them "stitched" together.

I've been following this build right from the get-go and I like these ideas.  The backdrop is super and has given me some good ideas for my own.

I live in an apartment 18 floors up so I'm watching this carefully.......so many good ideas, thanks!

Does Mrs. Scarpia know she appears in a cameo roll in the article?

Seriously I like both the backdrop construction method, and the lighting.  Looks a lot like something I'd do if I had the wiring to accommodate in in my train room.

Thanks guys for the nice comments - The magazine came out while I was traveling, so I haven't had a chance to look at the site until now. (Although kudo's to the MRH team, I was able to download the mag on my iPad from a hotel room in Rome, perfect for the flight home).

I'm happy now that  I can start showing my work again (been trying to hide the backdrop for a while now...

And so...here's another shot, but from a slightly different angle. It's a big image, so click on it for a full size view.

To me that picture is a winner Scarpia   and I think we'll be seeing that picture again.

Scarpia,

I love the pictures and especially love the static grass and the weathering!  The scene looks so inviting I wish that I could jump into the picture!

Rick

I too prefer the photographic backdrop vs the painted.   I'm in the process of building bench work and am not sure what is a good working height when using a HO photo backdrop....24 inches?   Is it dependent on the average distance from the viewer to the backdrop?    Is having more "sky" better when using backdrops.

James

That's one great looking backdrop, Scarp. Nice job blending the base into the scenery, and the photos look spectacular. You certainly came up with a very creative solution to a unique set of challenges!

Tom Patterson

"I too prefer the photographic backdrop vs the painted.   I'm in the process of building bench work and am not sure what is a good working height when using a HO photo backdrop....24 inches?   Is it dependent on the average distance from the viewer to the backdrop?    Is having more "sky" better when using backdrops.

James"

What looks right is entirely subjective and personal, but I think a good backdrop should continue beyond your normal line of sight in any direction under normal viewing conditions.  I.E.-When you are running a train, ideally you should not see anything above, below, or beyond your back drop.  If we are trying to replicate the real world, then our backdrop should be big enough to add to the illusion. 

One of the drawbacks to the modular layout that we set up at train shows is that we have our rail height at 42 inches from the floor.  Our standards require back drops on all but the corner modules, and they must be 8 inches above the rail and 1/8" shorted than the module to avoid interference with the back drop on the next module.  That puts the top of the backdrop at 50", but I am 73 inches tall.  If I don't stoop down, I am looking over the top of the back drop.  The reason for the low height is a compromise to allow kids to view the trains, but many of the smaller children need a stool or dad's shoulders to see.  For children 36 inches might be the ideal viewing height, but then it would be way too low for us to use. 

James,

concerning your question on correct height, I'd agree with Russ 100%. It's entirely based on your unique situational variables (scenery type, layout height, ceiling height, your height, number of cats who can count past 3 in your house, etc.)

If I can make a recommendation, get either a sheet of foam core (which I like due to its' rigidity) or some appropriate sized cardboard, and do a one-to-one mark up of what you think is your desire background height, plus a couple both taller and a smaller. Paint them all sky blue, and live with them for a bit - it may give you a great sense of what is appropriate for your own space.

and LARC the money for all four of their disks, as a result of the article.... :)

Since I have some 24' of background (urban and industrial) there were things on all of the disks that looked like I might be able to use them.  It didn't hurt that the disks also have a host of other usable photos (single structures, signs, interiors, etc, as well...)

For that link alone, I thank you.  The great pictures of the beautiful results you got are just icing on the cake....

(And, yes, Joe,  even though they aren't advertisers, I *did* mention I'd found them through MRH.... :)

Scarpia-

Took your advice and tested out sizing using blue foam board,  and your use of 20-21 inch height is perfect for me as well.   Thanks for a well-timed, great article.

James

Rick says he likes the static grass (I do, too!).  Is that what it is?

Milt

Mit, the grass is static grass.  I use a home made static grass applicator (based loosely off of this article).  The grass is 6mm in length.

Hope this helps!

I am getting close to having to fill vast fields with wild grass - if it looks like yours when I'm done, I will have succeeded!

Milt

Mit, I'm not a pro on grass like this. Others use an airbrush to paint the grass to vary color and tone, and I've seen some great work with fake fur. Have a look around before you begin.

It is a feat deal more attractive than just plain ground foam, that's for sure!

I'll throw out another view...click for a bigger size.

Nice depth of field, Scarpia. The lawn tractor looks good in the cut grass.

Roy

This picture is now my desktop.  It's a stunning picture and an excellent piece of modeling.

Shane

Tony,

The lamps I used are called KVART Wall/Clamp Spotlights from IKEA. Let me say right off the bat, you can do better.

These have worked for me, but I've never been totally happy with the lighting coverage. Maybe if I'd doubled the number by adding more risers, but I have never been 100% satisfied (even after changing to a wider bulb).

Please bear that in mind!

Shane,

thanks for your kind compliments. If you want, contact me via the user profile here, and I can send you a re-sized picture to match your resolution (the original is some ungodly 5000 x 3000 pixels).

Thanks to the magic of publishing, I've had this background "system" in place for about six months now, which means I've had the opportunity to live with it, and see what has and hasn't worked.

I thought this information may be of use to folks.

The mounting system. Some of you may be aware of the fact that I've gone back and re-worked track again on my third module, but had to do it from above - I couldn't pull the module out, precisely because it would have damaged the backdrop.  This is entirely because of the way that I assembled my system - folks who are considering something like this may want to make notes.

I built my module bases with the idea the legs of the GORM shelving would slip inside of them, to limit motion. Great idea in some ways, but foolish in others. My friend Norman has instead assembled his GORM so that it has a flush top; had I done this, I could have attached the background to the shelves, and let my modules float along the top.

Were I back in the USA with my wood shop, I may have also manufactured a full framed backdrop holder out of 1x1s, or found some way to build in pockets to enable the backdrop to be pulled out.

Staples. I would advise against using staples to hold the foam core to the risers, it seemed like a no-brainer at the time, but now some seem to be working out as the layout shifts when I bump or work on it. I (fortunately) hid the ones under the print with the double sided tape, but I would look at an adhesive instead of staples for that connection.

I hope this helps!