The whole article was a deffinet needed article but my responce is more to Tom Patterson about his way of ballasting track.

For many years I have laid the track first then added the ballast except for under Turnouts to avoid the small stones from getting wedged in critical switch mechanics and also to keep glue out of those same mechanisms.

I have never considered adding ballast to the roadbed before appling the track and was wondering what it looked like close up on an operating Model Railroad pike.

Also do you add more ballast to the track after the track is down

I have thought about that exact thing for 40+ years, yet I always end up laying the tracks first then ballasting everything except the turnouts and crossings having already glued down ballast in those areas prior to adding the tracks and tie.

When I hand lay tracks and turnouts I apply the roadbed then glue the ties to it. Once the ties are dry I sand them with 100 grit garnet sand paper first to level the ties then I scuff the tops with 80 grit Garnet sand paper,I skuff the tops of the ties by drawing the sand paper along the length of each Tie to give the look of grain. Then stain them and add ballast level with the top of the ties. Once the rails are stained and the stain is dry I ballast the ties. At this point I figure out where my electrial wireing will be attached and drill holes through the tie that gets the wire that is soldered to the bottom of the rails and then spike down the pre wired rails. I'm using ME code 70 narrow gauge flex track on this railroad and the Idea of pre ballasting the roadbed before adding the flex.How do you glue the flex track in place over ballasted roadbed without covering the ballast with caulk? What type of glue do you use to hold the track in place or do you religh solely on spikes or track nails? I liked your tip on Ballasting pryor to laying track but hope you can answer these few questions.

Some really good information on soldering!  The only thing I would add...with regard to freshly stripped, "clean" wire's, not needing cleaning;

This is often true, however oxidization can occur quickly while heating surfaces.  Flux prevents the metal being heated from oxidizing before the solder flows into and over the joint being made.  Yes, flux cored solder will help but sometimes an application of flux on so-called :clean" wires or surfaces. can be helpful.

I love the QA & T section and save them to a seperate file for reference.

Rick

Rio Grande Dan-

I started laying track in this manner after reading an article by Tony Koester on hand laying turnouts in the late 1980's. I had previously used Central Valley tie strips and I couldn't figure out a way to paint the track without all the fumes and fuss of an air brush. The picture below shows the area in the photo in MRH before the rails were laid.

The up close photo below of the same area shows that the ballast doesn't quite come up to the top of the ties.

This allows me to come back later and add addtional ballast and weathering as seen in the photos below.

 

For commercial track, I simply spike it down in holes drilled in the center of several ties and then apply the ballast. I have a handful of commercial turnouts on the layout  and they've all been put down in this fashion. You can see the difference in the two photos below. The commercial turnout is on the main in the lower right hand corner and the rest of the turnouts are hand laid.

Although I'm sure it's been done, I've never read about or seen photos of any commercial track that was glued on top of ballast.

Tom Patterson

I don't know why I seldom see mention of paste solder. One supplier is Oatey Instant Solder, available at Home Depot. It is a combination of solder and flux in a paste that is wonderful for construction projects. Once I get it mixed up (the solder settles out), I use a toothpick or skewer to apply a drop or two exactly where I want it.

I use it to solder track joints virtually invisibly, to attach detail parts to brass cars and locomotives, and to build brass structures. You can see more at my soldering clinic: http://www.ssandifer.com/Lay/Howard/Const/Solder/index.htm

Oatey Instant Solder contains Zinc Chloride, the main component in ACID flux.  Sold in the plumbing section, it is intended for pre-tinning of copper plumbing pipe.

Using acid flux is asking for trouble, IMO.

 From the WikiPedia article on zinc chloride:

Typically this flux was prepared by dissolving zinc foil in dilute hydrochloric acid until the liquid ceased to evolve hydrogen; for this reason, such flux was once known as killed spirits. Because of its corrosive nature, this flux is not suitable for situations where any residue cannot be cleaned away, such as electronic work.

Probably not a good idea to use this stuff for your modelling work, unless you can turn a fire hose on the finished product. 

I would presume that a brass locomotive or car would have the body removed from the mechanism before soldering on more details.  A brass structure would not have anything elecrtrical installed other than some possible lighting after the structure was complete, so it would be easily washed.  As far as use on track, Tim Warris recommends the use of acid flux in the construction of Fast Tracks switcxhes using his jigs.  The main issue would be to thoroughly clean and neutralize the joiint following the use of the liquid solder.  I would not use it for wiring, but otherwise, if done correctly, there should be no problem.

I would presume that a brass locomotive or car would have the body removed from the mechanism before soldering on more details.  A brass structure would not have anything elecrtrical installed other than some possible lighting after the structure was complete, so it would be easily washed.  As far as use on track, Tim Warris recommends the use of acid flux in the construction of Fast Tracks switcxhes using his jigs.  The main issue would be to thoroughly clean and neutralize the joiint following the use of the liquid solder.  I would not use it for wiring, but otherwise, if done correctly, there should be no problem.

I agree, using acid flux on a brass model that can be properly cleansed is likely fine.

However, if you watch the video tutorials that were linked you will note that the Qatey paste solder is recommended by the presenter, for soldering track joints etc. with no mention of washing or neutralizing the Acid flux.  Tim Warris does use Acid flux, (albeit unnecessarily) but he immerses the track work in soapy water to ensure all traces are removed.  I'll stick to using resin flux for my soldering.

 

No soldering or ballasting comments from me, though they were good. My comment relates to cats. I've taken the stance that no cats, neighbors, kids, nor the wife is allowed in my train room (ok, maybe not the latter 3, but cats, off limits!). Now this stance only works when your layout room is its own room! However, I've tested the squirt bottle trick to chase out kitten off the counter, and, while it works, its only effective if you're there to catch her (and you've got good aim). She's deathly afraid of baths, where our older cat will let you give her a bath. However the kitten, has now become more, how would you say it, brazen? She'll stand there and give a half mean, snarly face when you point the squirt bottle at her, and will take a good 3-4 sprays before she conceits defeat. Basically, water works, but they will learn to ignore it, closed doors work flawlessly.

Basically, water works, but they will learn to ignore it, closed doors work flawlessly. Josh Provided one's spouse remembers to shut the door.... David

Our CatScram works great. Just have it at the end of the hall leading to the layout room and the cat heads the other way every time he triggers it.